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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.